Pacific Surf (Anywhere you got a beach...)

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Shaggy
Posts: 172
Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2007 10:51 am

Pacific Surf (Anywhere you got a beach...)

Post by Shaggy » Sat Sep 15, 2007 10:29 am

I've been playing a bit along Pacific (Washington) beaches along the outer coast. In fact, if you go to the "Beyond Spec" home page (search for it...), you can see a picture of me being given a serious comeuppance by a small but extremely ill-tempered wall of high-velocity seawater. Small swell (a couple feet or less is pretty tame, but can still make you work hard to get through the swash and breaker zones.

Anyway, a couple general things I've come up with regarding fun in moderate surf:

1. Have a read PFD. The old therm-a-rest under the raincoat trick is NOT a good idea, consider the pressures and forces involved when a breaking wave dumps you. I had a friend almost drown when he got spilled in the surf, and his thermarest tore his zipper out of his coat and ejected. He lived by clinging to the pad, before I got to him in my boat. My bad for not realizing he'd followed me into the outer line, but I'll never let that happen again.
2. Recommend a GOOD PFD, ideally foam, not inflatable. Why? If you're out in swells greater than, say, 3", there's a good chance you'll spend a few seconds in Davey Jones' locker, when you get caught right in the throat of breaking wave. You'll come up fine, but you wouldn't want to have a PFD that's going to rupture from pressure.
3. Choose an area with a sandy bottom, or light gravel - not cobbles. You can get dumped from the boat and slammed into the shingle. Again, a foam PFD is nice here, since it doubles as body armor.
4. Helmet = Good. As above: You can hit the shingle pretty hard, just like hitting rocks in a rapid.
5. Be pepared for a wet and arduous ride. The waves are ready to make short work of the unprepared. You'll want to keep bow- or stern- into them, and that'll involve a lot of paddle-work, sometimes. Expect to ship a lot of water. You'll be paddling hard, fighting seemingly endless barrages of foam at times, and losing nine feet for every ten you gain when trying to punch through the surf line. Wear clothes that'll keep you warm in both the wind and the water.
6. Be prepared to DUMP. A wave can put you out of your boat and in the drink. I once bailed voluntarily out of my boat in the outer surf line, to send a nearly-drowned buddy in on it, then paddled most of they way inshore on my back, using my Splat paddle. Again, dress for success: Good PFD, warm clothes: raingear w/ fleece underlayer, or neoprene (wetsuit), or drysuit. You can get in through moderate surf over a kind bottom, especially if you're used "diving" under waves when you need to, but you don't want to be in a speedo out there, or you'll get hypothermia.
7. Watch out for your chums. It's good to be able to keep track of your buddies out there, for sure. In fact, in anything rough enough to be "exciting," I personally always have a buddy (this from a guy who does a lot of his rivers alone).
8. Think about a tether. You can consider a lanyard from your paddle to the boat. It's up to you. One one hand, it lessens the possibility of losing your boat if you dump, and having to swim in. On the other hand, it has all the usual lanyard woes of wrapping around you at embarassing moments. I never use a lanyard in hair rivers. My modus operendi is currently to punch through the surf zone w/o a lanyard, but hook one on if I'm doing open water stuff beyond the surf zone.
9. It gets deep, fast.
10. It's really good to be at home in the water, psychological as well as physically. Surf zones can beat you up - or at least, they beat me up. I always assume I'm going to be swimming some. They're a grinder of sorts - a testing ground.
11. Personally, I don't surf well in them. I have a hard time getting the necessary speed up to surf, at least in 3' - 4' surf, which is about as big as I've pushed it.
12. It's good to have a photographer on shore, so they can record your moments of incredible oceanic smack-down (as in, when it smacks you down) for all posterity.

Personally, I love surf zones, but I respect them a lot. I get cold, I get tired, and I get sloppy - but they don't. They're too busy trying to erode continents to worry about me. They've fun, and they definitely push your skills and fitness, if that's what you're looking for. Cheers!
All posts are personal opinions only.

"Boldness has a genius, power, and magic." -Goethe

packraftnewmexico
Posts: 116
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:22 pm
Location: Tijeras, New Mexico, USA

Re: Pacific Surf (Anywhere you got a beach...)

Post by packraftnewmexico » Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:18 pm

DUDE! I just got back from Myrtle Beach, SC, for a few days of beach bumming. I packed my trusty Yak and paddle and MAN-o-MAN did I have fun in that thing. Those east coast waves were perfect!! I must have spent at least 20 or more hours over a three day period just playing in the surf. I felt like a teenager again having so much fun. I loved hitting the waves crests going out and really loved riding the good ones back in. Even the dudes on surfboards were giving me strange looks. I am utterly amazed at how much %$##^& fun my Yak was in the surf. :P It is tiring but somehow it didn't get to me. You are right about that smackdown for sure. ;)
Glenn Sveum
A day on the river is not subracted from the days near the end of your life!

Arturgreen
Posts: 46
Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 10:52 pm

Re: Pacific Surf (Anywhere you got a beach...)

Post by Arturgreen » Thu May 08, 2008 12:42 am

As the almost drowned buddy described in the first topic post I would support the safety measures outlined above... as well as add the detail that going out into the Pacific surf at night was really a dumb idea. :)

That being said, I'd love to try it again under the following conditions:

Buddy system
Real PFD
Daytime

andrewallan
Posts: 217
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Re: Pacific Surf (Anywhere you got a beach...)

Post by andrewallan » Thu May 08, 2008 1:22 am

Me thinks that Forrest might have been wishing to keep the "night paddle" a little quieter than that!

Yep, certainly paddling at night in the surf would fit the "exciting" category!

packraftnewmexico
Posts: 116
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:22 pm
Location: Tijeras, New Mexico, USA

Re: Pacific Surf (Anywhere you got a beach...)

Post by packraftnewmexico » Thu May 08, 2008 5:08 pm

The last time I was in the ocean playing, (last month) and also being one who has never lived anywhere close to an ocean, I was briskly told by a local that the sharks feed at night. I quickly removed myslelf from the water and came back in the light.
Glenn Sveum
A day on the river is not subracted from the days near the end of your life!

packraftnewmexico
Posts: 116
Joined: Tue Sep 04, 2007 11:22 pm
Location: Tijeras, New Mexico, USA

Re: Pacific Surf (Anywhere you got a beach...)

Post by packraftnewmexico » Sat Aug 01, 2009 8:35 am

Just got back from Huntington Beach, CA, and MAN WERE THOSE WAVES BIG this week.!! Appaerently a few people went missing over the last few weeks in Cali, there were search helicopters everywhere. Anyhow... I took my Alpacka out into the waves and got SMASHED!!!! Repeatedly smashed. I eventually gave up and called it a day. I ripped a part of the spray skirt a bit but the boat never failed me. I even got the hang loose sign from some local surfer dudes, which was pretty cool. On the rare occasion I was able to ride the waves, they took my all the way in to dry sand almost. Tough boat..big waves.. and great fish tacos a Wahoos!!!! Doesn't get much better... :)
Glenn Sveum
A day on the river is not subracted from the days near the end of your life!

JaCkSmith
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:28 pm

Re: Pacific Surf (Anywhere you got a beach...)

Post by JaCkSmith » Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:40 pm

I packed my trusty Yak and paddle and MAN-o-MAN did I have fun in that thing. Those east coast waves were perfect!! I must have spent at least 20 or more hours over a three day period just playing in the surf.

tombunter
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 2:51 pm
Location: Napa, CA & Anchorage, AK

Re: Pacific Surf (Anywhere you got a beach...)

Post by tombunter » Mon Jul 16, 2012 8:17 pm

Hey,
I'm lookin for some paddling partners. I want to float down some rivers out to the ocean, which is where you and your surfing come in. I'm in Napa and willin to drive as far as Oregon. Just let me know. 707 337-6200
http://www.facebook.com/tom.bunter

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